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источник http://www.biasco.com/pbguides/productbuyersguide.php 1. “Built in” or “built under”? There is often confusion about the terms “built in’’ and “built under”. A single oven can be both of the above. As it fits into a housing unit, or carcase, it is generally described as “built in”. The two types of installation are shown below. There are two types of double oven . One can be ‘“built under”’, the other can be ‘built in’. “built under” double ovens do not normally need an oven housing unit. See diagrams below. Virtually all other appliances are either ‘“built under”’ or ‘‘built in’’. Unfortunately though, a “built under’ fridge (or freezer ) can also be described as ‘‘built in’’! This is because it is designed to fit ‘under’ a worktop, but people think of it as being “built in” to their kitchen. It is confusing to say the least! Shown below are both types of installation. Nearly all dishwashers are “built under”. There are a few that are not, and these are normally described as “in-column” and fit into a tall unit. At present, all washing machines and tumble dryers are “built under”. 2. Integrated - Fully or Semi? A dishwasher can be either of the above. “Fully integrated” is the term used to describe an appliance that is completely covered by a furniture door when installed. “Semi integrated” means that there will be a control panel visible above the furniture door. See below the examples below. Washing machines and tumble dryers are nearly always “Fully Integrated”, although there are a few “Semi Integrated” models available. 3. Do I need to ‘vent’ my appliance? If the furniture is being fitted to the ceiling (i.e. with ceiling scribes), then extra care will need to be taken. A vent in the ceiling scribe AND the plinth will be necessary to allow for the correct air flow. Many “built under” wine coolers require ventilation through the worktop above. If required it is vital that this is provided. Please ask if you are unsure about any of the points mentioned above. 4. Colours and finishes There are various colours and finishes available, and there are lots of different ways of describing or identifying them. Brushed steel and stainless steel are the same essentially, although some manufacturers do offer a “Polished steel” finish which is very shiny and will show finger marks etc. Aluminium is a less shiny alternative to Steel and is offered as an alternative to reduce the “finger mark problem”. Aluminium is normally more expensive to purchase. You may find the “cleaning appliances” section of this guide useful when making your choice. Below is a chart, which will help identify the codes or suffixes currently used by manufacturers to identify a colour/finish. Steel Aluminium White Black Brown Neff N N/A W S B Bosch --50 N/A --20 --60 N/A Siemens --550 N/A --250 --650 N/A AEG M A W B D Zanussi X ALU W N B Miele SS ALU WH BL DB Baumatic SS A W BL N/A Electrolux X U W K B Hotpoint X AL W K B The above chart does not show all the colours/manufacturers available, please call our Helpline on 0845 055 75 75 for the latest information and advice. 5. Cleaning Appliances Fascias We are often asked questions about keeping appliances clean. The most popular question being, “How do I stop fingerprints appearing on my Stainless Steel oven?” The short answer is “You can’t!” If baby oil on a soft cloth is used to clean the front of the oven, this will keep them at bay, but will not stop them completely. Another useful aid to cleaning is the E-Cloth. This is a cloth that manufacturers recommend to use on the exterior of ovens etc., particularly stainless steel. These cloths are similar to a face flannel, and are best used slightly damp. Some manufacturers (e.g. Zanussi) have tried to solve the ‘problem’ by using a clear lacquer, which coats the steel and protects it from our greasy fingers. This does seem to be effective. Aluminium finish appliances have become more popular as an alternative to steel as it offers a metallic finish that is not prone to fingerprints etc. This finish is normally more expensive, and the choice of products is limited. At present, Gas hobs are only available with an Aluminium trim. This is due to the low melting point of Aluminium, which obviously makes it unsuitable for use when making the base of a gas hob. Generally, appliances that are offered in a colour are easier to clean. Often the surfaces are glass and colour is sprayed on the back. However there are still a large number of appliances that have an enamel finish, e.g. hobs and cooker hoods. These are relatively easy to clean, but enamel/painted finishes can chip. With regard to keeping the inside of ovens clean, this will be covered later in the next section, which is devoted to ovens. 6. Oven Types Single Ovens Single oven means SINGLE CAVITY. There are many variations of single oven available. The main differences, other than appearance, are the ‘functions’ or types of cooking that these ovens will perform. The vast majority of “built in” single ovens are now electric. This was not always the case and there is still a limited range of “built in” gas ovens. Electrolux are one of the major brands that still offer gas as a fuel type. Neff, Bosch, Siemens do not. Most single ovens will fit into the same space, which is 60cm. There are some single ovens that are larger. Some manufacturers including Miele, Gaggenau, Kuppersbusch, AEG and Smeg produce larger ovens, which will only fit in a housing that has been specially made to accommodate them. Beware - these are not standard size ovens and require non-standard furniture! Most ovens have drop down doors, but there are a few with side opening or hinged doors, there are even a few with doors that fold away under the oven. These will be covered in more detail in the special needs section. The majority of single ovens only need a 13amp power supply. Always check first as there are some that need 30amps. If in doubt always fit a 30amp supply. Double Ovens Double oven means TWO CAVITIES. Although described as “double” ovens, this type of oven normally consists of “ one and a half ” ovens. There are a few ovens that have two cavities the same size, and these are normally described as “ twin ” ovens. The cooking functions available are similar to those offered with single ovens. The top (or secondary) oven would normally be a conventional oven and grill. There are now a few models offering “multifunction” systems in the smaller oven as well as the main oven. The bottom (or main) oven could offer fan cooking only or be ‘multifunction’ (see cooking functions). Generally, “built under” double ovens fit into an aperture of 720mm high (excluding plinth height) whilst “built in” double ovens fit into an aperture of 880mm high within a tall unit. (See diagrams shown in ‘‘built in’ or under’ section) Please note: the diagram shown above, illustrates the dimensions of a ‘Twin’ oven (with two large ovens). Twin ovens are only available from a few manufacturers, such as Miele and Kuppersbusch. In most cases, a special housing unit would need to be built, or the existing unit modified. 7. Cooking Functions Fan, conventional or multifunction A basic single oven is normally described as a ‘fan’ oven. This type of oven forces hot air into the oven cavity. This type of cooking is generally regarded as more energy efficient as heat is evenly distributed and the time that the oven takes to heat up to the required temperature is reduced. Fan ovens usually require temperature settings 20% below that of a conventional oven. This type of cooking does not always produce the best results (e.g. when roasting larger pieces of meat and poultry that should be cooked slowly). All manufacturers offer ‘Multifunction’ ovens that have alternative methods of cooking to the one described above. Cakes, pastries and foods that require long, slow cooking is best cooked using conventional heat. This type of heat is provided by elements encased in the top and bottom of the oven. There are a few other ‘functions’ offered by oven manufactures, but they are normally regarded as ‘extra’ functions’ and not specified by our clients as much as the two described above. There are a few ovens that are only available with a ‘conventional’ function. These are normally inexpensive and aimed at the person who “just wants an oven”. This type of oven is frequently offered without any clock or timer, which helps keeps the price down. 8. Oven Cleaning Systems Oven Cleaning Systems Is it self-cleaning? One of the most often asked questions! Because an oven is used to cook food, which contains fat or oil, it will get dirty. There are three kinds of oven available with respect to cleaning. Catalytic (or Oxylytic/CeramiClean ) Pyrolytic AquaCleanse Catalytic This type of oven has liners, which react to high temperatures (approximately 250 degrees C) causing fat etc. to be burnt off or ‘oxidised’. This type of cleaning is fairly low maintenance, as the linings tend to take care of themselves. Most ovens have liners that are replaceable as over a long period they can become saturated and will no longer burn off all the fat and grease. However, a few ovens (mostly made by the Electrolux group) have ‘painted’ on linings. These cannot be replaced. Bosch call their liners ‘Oxylytic’ and Neff now call theirs ‘CeramiClean’, but these are basically the same process as Catalytic. Pyrolytic More science!! This type of oven utilises a process called ‘Pyrolysis’. Described in the dictionary as: Py·rol·y·sis (n) The use of heat to break down complex chemical substances into simpler substances Or in other words - when the Pyrolytic function is performed, the oven door locks and the oven heat up to approximately 500 degrees centigrade and turns any fat or grease to ash. This process is regarded as the most efficient method of cleaning and is economical and environmentally friendly as it uses no chemicals. These ovens are normally slightly more expensive, but are available from every major appliance manufacturer. WARNING The Pyrolytic function must be used regularly. If fat and grease is allowed to build up it is likely to catch fire when heated at 500 degrees! All shelves and pans should be removed from the oven prior to activating the cleaning function. AquaCleanse This is an AID to cleaning and was formally known as “Hydoclean” and currently only available with Neff ovens. AquaCleanse ovens do NOT clean themselves, the process simply make oven cleaning easier. The process involves pouring approximately 200ml of water (with a touch of Fairy liquid if desired) into the oven. When the AquaCleanse function is selected, the element in the bottom of the oven heats the cavity to 60 degrees Celcius, which is enough to produce steam. The inside of the oven is then ‘steamed’ for about 15 minutes. The oven will then bleep telling you it is safe to open the door. The inside of the oven will be moist and the bottom of the cavity will be covered in warm water. The idea is that the steam loosens any fat, grease or bits of food making the oven easier to clean. The above process will only work if carried out regularly. Neff recommend that you use the AquaCleanse function every time the oven is used. As it is very economical to use, there should be no excuses! Remember, AquaCleanse is a cleaning aid, you will still need to wipe the oven interior clean None of the above Some ovens have Catalytic liners on the roof or back of the oven and some have none at all. These ovens would have to be cleaned using oven cleaner and good old fashioned ‘elbow grease’. 9. Hobs Gas hobs There are many different types of gas hob. Bosch alone produces 16 different gas hobs (not allowing for the various colour options). The amount of burners can vary between 1 and 6, and the width can vary between 280mm and 1005mm! A sweeping statement about hobs There does not appear to be any particularly good or bad manufacturers of gas hobs. Apart from transit damage, we do not seem to get many problems with gas hobs. The most common ‘problem’ is the client choosing the wrong model. Variations Apart from the obvious colour choices, there are also various types of pan support available. These can be offered in cast iron, enamelled steel or stainless steel. Cast iron pan supports These are considered to be the most durable and are often described as ‘heavy’ pan supports (for obvious reasons). Generally, this type should not be put into a dishwasher for cleaning as they can rust. Hobs with cast iron supports are normally slightly more expensive than models offered with enamelled supports. Enamelled pan supports/burner caps These are normally manufactured from mild steel and then enamelled. This type can normally be cleaned in a dishwasher. Over a long period of time, the enamel can become brittle and chip off due to the amount of heat generated by the gas burners. The burner caps will become dull, and this can happen relatively quickly. Stainless steel pan supports/burner caps. BEWARE Stainless steel pan supports will turn blue when heat is applied. Some brands offer these on some of their hobs, but usually offer alternative black pan supports and burner caps for an extra cost. Gas on glass. Gas hobs can be made of stainless steel, mild steel then enamelled, glass or a combination of metal and glass. The vast majority of coloured hobs are made of mild steel and then enamelled. Some coloured hobs are made of glass, normally black glass. There are also a lot of gas on glass hobs, which are made of the same material as ceramic hobs. This glass is in fact a very dark red, and is used because it is hard wearing and can cope well with extremes of temperature. Type of knobs Gas hobs are available with various types of knobs/controls and these can be situated on the front or side of the hob. We are often asked for hobs with side controls as it is considered that this style is safer when there are young/small children are in residence. Front controls are preferred by those who are left handed, as side controls are always on the right! Front controls are often specified for special needs installations, as wheelchair users find them more practical. Some hobs have a flame failure device. This feature will automatically shut off the gas supply to the hob if the flame is extinguished for any reason. Some hobs have an electronic ignition, which will automatically re-ignite the gas if it goes out. IMPORTANT SAFETY ANNOUCEMENT Care must be taken when installing gas hobs, as there are specific regulations that must be adhered to. There should be a minimum distance between a gas hob and the cooker hood or unit above of 750mm. If the hob is installed adjacent to a tall housing unit, then it should be at least 150mm from that unit. There should also be also be a gap on the other side of the hob of at least 750mm. If the hob is being installed in the gap between 2 tall units, then there must be a space of at least 300mm either side of the hob. To avoid any confusion (and fires!), gas hobs should always be fitted by a C.O.R.G.I. registered fitter who will be familiar with these installation requirements. It is illegal otherwise. Electric/Ceramic hobs Avoid common ordering and installation errors Ceramic hobs are not supplied with a cable and require installation by a qualified electrician. Ceramic hobs are very tough, but it is still possible to scratch them in normal use. Make sure you have the correct power feed for the hob. Not all hobs, even those designed to be fitted above a 600mm base or oven, are the same size. There are four types of electric hob Solid Plate Ceramic/Quick light/Radiant/Hilite (all the same) Induction Halogen Solid Plate Probably used or seen by everybody! This type of hob is very common in older kitchens, but is now not so popular. The modern version of this type of hob is quicker than the older models, but is still relatively slow. The ‘plates’ are made of cast-iron, which can rust and are slow to cool down. Ceramic A hard brittle heat-resistant material made by firing a mixture of substances at a high temperature. Best described as an electric heating element concealed under glass. This type of hob is also described as Quicklight, Radiant and Hilite! This type is much quicker than the solid plate hobs of old. The power requirement for these hobs is normally at least 30 amps. Touch control or knobs? There are 2 types of controls available on ceramic hobs. Touch control or knobs. An example of a touch control hob is shown above. As people become more aware of these, they are becoming more popular. They are more expensive, but are certainly easier to clean. Some touch control hobs also have a timer facility as an option. This enables the user to set a ‘zone’ to simmer for a period of time then switch off. Induction - First, the science The process by which electric or magnetic forces are created in a circuit by being in proximity to an electric or magnetic field or a varying current without physical contact. Put simply, this type of hob does generate heat. It uses a powerful magnetic field to ‘heat’ the bottom of a saucepan. The only types of saucepans that will work with an induction hob are those that have a magnetic base. These pans are easily available from major department stores. Induction hobs are very quick! Most Induction hobs will boil water faster than a standard gas ring. This type of hob will get hot as the pan gets hot There are however disadvantages. You cannot use an induction hob if you have a pacemaker fitted! The general school of thought is that the powerful magnetic field will interfere with the rhythm of the pacemaker, and can cause serious health problems. Most manufacturers insist that induction hobs are not installed above a working drawer. This is to allow sufficient ventilation for the electro-magnets in the base of the hob. Some larger induction hobs need a power supply of more than 10kw. This is generally not available via a standard domestic consumer unit. Check with our helpline if you are unsure of the power requirement and consult an electrician to confirm that this amount of power is available. Halogen Used to describe lamps or heat sources having a filament surrounded by halogen vapour. Although very popular at one time this type of hob is now rare as they are expensive to repair and can fail within a relatively short period of time,. Some manufacturers do offer hobs with a mixture of Halogen and Ceramic/Radiant rings. People often refer to ceramic hobs as Halogen, when more often than not they mean standard ceramic. Domino Hobs Avoid common ordering and installation errors Domino hobs are often much deeper than worktops. Care must be taken to allow for this fact. Joining strips are often required with these products. These are normally two ring hobs, which can be combined with other hobs to make a combination of hob types and fuel sources. Above is an example of how Domino hobs are combined to make up what is essentially a large hob with different types of heat source. In the picture above, three types of hob have been used as well as two downdraft extractors. A griddle/barbeque grill and a steam hob domino have been used together with a ceramic hob to make up the combination shown. A joining strip is normally used to join the hobs together, which is a much neater looking and easier to clean installation. Not all manufacturers produce domino hobs and not all manufacturers produce joining strips. 10. Cooker hoods/Extraction There are many types of hood/extractor available. Most of them are listed below: Chimney Integrated Canopy Conventional Telescopic Downdraft (For worktop or island installation) The main reason for installing an extractor is to take away the smells and grease that are produced during cooking. Extractors will also help to take away the steam and heat that is associated with cooking on a hob. The ‘dirty’ air passes through a grease filter first, which is normally made up of layers of aluminium mesh (metal grease filters). Some extractors do still use paper grease filters, which can be washed a few times but will eventually need to be replaced. Metal grease filters can be washed in the sink or a dishwasher, and therefore do not need to be replaced. Ducted out or re-circulating? All extractors are designed to take the ‘dirty’ air through ducting and then out to the outside world. The majority of extractors also have the facility to have a carbon/charcoal filter fitted, which will get rid of the cooking smells. The ‘cleaned’ air is then blown back into the kitchen via a vent in the extractor. This does not help alleviate the ‘problem’ of condensation etc. caused by steam, but sometimes is the only option if the extractor is not fitted to an outside wall. It is important to keep the ducting ‘run’ as short as possible. Every bend or elbow in the ducting will reduce the efficiency by approximately 5%. Always use the manufacturers recommended ducting, normally 125mm or 150mm diameter. Current building regulations require virtually all hoods fitted within new properties to be ducted out. Remote motors Some manufacturers offer extractors with a remote motor. This means that the motor/fan unit is not situated inside the appliance, but is fitted ‘remotely’. The remote motor is normally fitted in a loft space or onto an outside wall and is connected to the ‘hood’ by a power cable. Ducting is required to take the ‘dirty air’ from the hood to the motor and this must be ordered separately. The main advantage of this type of extractor is that they are a lot quieter than ‘standard’ hoods. The extraction rate is also improved, and can be up to 25% more efficient. Chimney hoods (and Island hoods) Avoid common ordering and installation errors Please check ceiling heights – even though hoods can have adjustable chimney sections, some ceilings are too low or too high! Remember that Island hoods must be fixed to a ceiling The fixing must be strong enough to hold the Island hood (40kg+). Order an island hood for use above an island Ordering a standard hood for use against a wall Remember to order the ducting/filters These are available in various sizes. The most common are 60cm,70cm and 90cm. There are other sizes available- 80cm, 100cm and 120cm to name a few, but these are less common. Virtually all chimney hoods have chimneys supplied in 2 sections. This enables them to be installed at varying heights. See diagram below. It is not necessary to match the width of the hob and hood. You can fit a 90cm hood over a 60cm hob or a 60cm hood over a 70cm hob! We recommend that the hood is at least as wide as the hob for maximum efficiency. In any event furniture MUST NOT be fitted above, or overlap, a hob unless it is below some form of extraction system. Island hoods must be fixed to the ceiling. These hoods need to be fixed to a joist etc. in order to obtain a secure fixing. Please ensure sufficient support is available in the correct position before ordering your hood. Although there is a choice of colours on the market, the vast majority of chimney hoods are only available in steel. Extra care should be taken when ordering Rangemaster hoods. There are various versions available – with or without a rail and with Chrome or Brass trim. Please ensure that the model you order is the correct height and type. A canopy hood cannot be fitted above an island; an island hood cannot be fitted against a wall. Integrated hoods Avoid common ordering and installation errors Remember to order ducting/filters with the hood This type of hood has a door mounted on the front of it. All manufacturers offer at least one of these in their range as it is relatively inexpensive and when fitted is virtually undetectable. Available only in 60cm wide and normally offered in silver (not stainless steel), this type of extractor is an old favourite. Conventional Hoods Avoid common ordering and installation errors Remember to order ducting/filters with the hood Conventional extractors were very popular at one time. They can be fitted to the wall above a hob, or to a ‘top box’ unit as shown on the previous page. These tend to be bought nowadays as a replacement for old existing extractors, and are used less in ‘new’ installations. These hoods are generally not as powerful as other types and are usually not the most attractive. Canopy Hoods Avoid common ordering and installation errors Remember to order ducting/filters with the hood Also described as “motor units”, this variation is normally used in a wooden canopy or a chimney breast style installation. There is a very limited range that will fit into a wall unit, but extreme care must be taken to ensure that your units will accommodate these hoods. There are a few sizes available, but they are generally made in 52-54cm or 72-75cm wide sizes. These hoods are generally 300mm deep or more and will not fit into a standard wall unit. Care must be taken by the client/installer with regard to the size of these extractors, as some will not fit in certain furniture canopies. Telescopic Hoods Avoid common ordering and installation errors Not all of these extractors come with a ‘trim’ on the front. Remember to order ducting/filters with the hood This style of extractor is slowly becoming more popular. These are fitted into a wall unit, and are available in various widths. The extractor motor is hidden in the unit and all that is visible is a pull out section at the bottom. This section can normally have light pelmet fitted to it, so it will blend in with the rest of the furniture. The disadvantage with type of extractor is that the unit above it is ‘lost’ due to the motor inside. Downdraft Avoid common ordering and installation errors Remember to allow sufficient space below for the motor unit Use the correct length ducting Allow for ducting when fitted within an Island unit There are many pitfalls with regard to the installation of this type of extractor. This extractor fits into the worksurface adjacent to the hob or hobs. Most often used in ‘island’ installations where it is more difficult to install an extractor overhead. The problem with this type of extractor is the way the ducting is installed. If it is an island installation, then the ducting has to be run under the floor. Not easy when it is a concrete floor! The other problem is that Gaggenau downdraft extractors, for instance, have a separate motor. With regard to downdraft extractors- Please ask if you are not sure! 11. Microwaves Microwaves – a definition A type of electromagnetic wave whose wavelength ranges from 1.0 mm to 30 cm, used in radar, to carry radio transmissions, and in cooking or heating devices An oven that cooks or heats food or beverages relatively quickly using high-frequency electromagnetic radiation. Also called microwave oven There are essentially three types of ‘built in’ microwave oven Conventional microwave Microwave with grill (browner) Combination microwave This type is a microwave only! A conventional microwave cooks by using nothing but microwave energy. This type is available in various sizes and may or may not come with a trim kit/building in kit depending on the manufacturer. Conventional microwaves are available to fit into a ‘standard’ oven housing and some models will fit into a 500 or 600mm wide wall unit. Check the microwave and wall unit depth to confirm compatibility. This type of microwave normally has a button on the front to open the door and that door is normally left hand hinged. They do not normally have a handle on the door, so they do not actually ‘match’ ovens but would be the same finish or colour. The interior of these microwaves is normally enamelled, not stainless steel. The capacity of conventional microwaves can vary between 17 litres and 26 litres. Microwave with grill (browner) As it says, this type of machine is a microwave with a grill (browner) facility. The grill could be a Halogen heat source or a conventional element. In the majority of these products the functions are: Microwave, Grill or Microwave and Grill together. This type of machine normally has a turntable and comes with a rack (normally 2 levels) to raise the food towards the grill. The grill power rating is normally between 800 watt and 1100 watt (1.1kw). The interior of these machines is usually stainless steel to help with cleaning etc. Again, the door on these machines are left hand hinged. Combination Microwave Ovens This is best described as a Microwave, Grill and Oven combined in one unit. The oven function could be either Fan or Conventional and there are a couple of models that have both. The important thing to remember with this machine is the word ‘Combination’. This tells you that the different cooking functions can be used in conjunction with each other. Not all combinations are possible. Some models offer 3 methods of cooking, and some only offer a combination of 2 functions. These ovens are often used with a single oven to achieve a cooking capacity similar to a double oven, but with the convenience of a microwave. These ovens have a larger capacity than other microwaves. They are usually 30 litres or more, a typical top/secondary oven on a double oven is 31 litres. Unlike conventional microwaves, this type of oven does not normally have a separate building in kit. They do normally have a handle on the door, which is designed to ‘match’ the handle on that particular manufacturers range of single or double ovens. These machines are available with drop down and left hand hinges but vary from one manufacturer to another. 12. Dishwashers Dishwashers are regarded by some as a luxury, but by many as a necessity! There are essentially 5 types of 'built in' dishwasher. Fully integrated Semi integrated In-column Dishdrawer Compact There are essentially 2 widths available. 450mm (8 or 9 place) and 600mm (12 or 14 place). In-column dishwashers and compact dishwashers are smaller, these will be covered later in this section. Fully Integrated This is, by far, the most popular type of ‘built in’ dishwasher. Once installed, this machine is virtually undetectable. A full height ‘furniture’ door (approx. 715mm high) is fitted to the front of the appliance and covers it completely. The controls for this type of machine are on the top edge of the dishwasher door. The machine is switched on first, the type of programme and temperature is selected and the machine starts seconds after the door is clicked shut (unless a delayed start has been set). There are various models available, and most manufacturers offer a choice of 2 or more models. The main difference between these models will be the amount and type of programmes offered and the choice of different wash temperatures. There are 2 heights of fully integrated dishwasher. The ‘standard’ height machine is normally adjustable to suit a height (from floor to underside of worktop) of between 810-870mm. The alternative size machine adjusts between 860-920mm. These taller dishwashers do not fit all kitchens . They do offer a larger capacity, which could be 14 place settings, rather than the normal 12. Some manufacturers may also state in their literature that bigger plates can be accommodated. Both 450mm (8 or 9 place setting) and 600mm sizes are available in the fully integrated option. Semi Integrated This type of dishwasher has a visible control panel, which is very similar in size to a ‘standard’ drawer front. The door is fitted below this panel and is normally between 560 – 600mm high. The control panels are available in different finishes. Depending on the manufacturer, there may be a choice of steel, white, black, and aluminium etc. Most semi integrated machines come with filler strips or the actual control panel will be adjustable in size, so that various heights of door can be accommodated. This also helps ‘line up’ the bottom of the furniture door with the adjacent units. Please check the door sizes of your furniture to ensure the dishwasher and door is compatible. In-column In column dishwashers do not stand on the floor. These dishwashers are “built in” to a tall or mid height housing unit, which does mean that they are slightly smaller in width. As they are installed at a higher level than normal they are much easier to load. Caution This design must be installed at a higher level to allow the wastewater to drain properly. They cannot be installed at the normal floor level. Dishdrawer Unusual to say the least - basically, these models are a dishwasher inside a drawer! Available in a single or double version, these are totally different in design to anything mentioned above. The dish drawer fits into a standard 600mm wide space and the double version adjusts from 820-880mm in height. The single version is installed in a similar way to a “built under” oven. This version fits to the underside of the worktop but as it is only approximately 410mm in height, it needs to be fitted onto a specially adapted base unit (see below). Compact This type is more or less a freestanding compact dishwasher, with a build in frame. Bosch and Zanussi are two major brands that offer this type of machine. A compact dishwasher would typically only have a capacity of 4/5 place settings. They are not much larger than a ‘built in’ microwave, which means they do not take up a great deal of room. The Zanussi model must be fitted at least 850mm from the floor, whilst the Bosch version can be “built under” a worktop. 13. Refrigeration There are 5 types of ‘built in’ refrigeration: Fridge Freezer Fridge Freezer Wine/drinks Cooler American side by side fridge freezers Integrated Fridges Fridges can be “built under” or ‘built in’, and may or may not have a small freezer compartment or icebox. These products are always fully integrated. “Built under” fridges are fairly straightforward, and would normally be adjustable in height from 820-870mm. A fridge without an icebox is called a ‘Larder Fridge’, and one with an icebox is normally just called a ‘Fridge’ or ‘Refrigerator’. A fridge that is designed for a tall housing can vary in height between 875mm and 1400mm. The 875mm versions will normally be offered with a ‘matching’ freezer. This enables the end user to ‘make up’ a 50/50 fridge freezer using separate machines. All integrated fridges have an ‘automatic defrost’ feature, which helps keep the interior of the fridge free from frost. There are two ways of fixing the furniture door to a fridge. Door on door Slider Door on door means that the furniture door is attached to the fridge by a bracket. The only hinges in use are those, which are part of the fridge door itself. This system is generally considered to be better and is slightly more expensive. Slider fixings use hinges to attach the furniture door to the housing. The door is then attached by a sliding bracket to the fridge door. This method often uses two sets of hinges. One set for the furniture door, and another for the actual fridge door. These two methods of fixing are also available on freezers and fridge freezers. If the above explanation is a bit confusing, you will normally find that our showrooms have both types on display and the difference will become apparent once you have seen them. Integrated Freezers The variety of sizes available is the same as mentioned previously with regard to fridges. Freezers are also offered with ‘door on door’ or ‘slider’ fixings. There are no ‘frost free’ integrated freezers offered at present, most modern machines will only need defrosting once a year. Freezers normally have drawers to store the food in, but some are made with a mixture of pull out drawers and a drop down flap (normally situated at the top). The drawers in a freezer will be either solid white plastic, clear plastic or opaque/frosted. The clear and opaque/frosted versions are sometimes made out of a tinted plastic, depending on the manufacturer. Integrated Fridge Freezers Fridge freezers are offered in a variety of sizes. The most common height available is around 1770-1780mm high, but there are smaller versions available. The ‘split’ between fridge and freezer could be 50/50, 60/40 or 70/30. These percentages are not always adhered to, but can be used to describe the majority of machines available. A 50/50 fridge freezer would normally have 4 drawers in the freezer part. The bottom drawer of a fridge freezer is not normally full depth as the ‘workings’ are contained in the bottom of the appliance immediately behind this drawer. These machines are sometimes offered in a ‘frost free’ option. A ‘frost free’ fridge freezer should never need defrosting, as there is a function that prevents the freezer from ‘frosting up’. This type of machine is normally more expensive and can be a bit noisier than a ‘standard’ fridge freezer. Fridge freezers are also offered with ‘door on door’ or ‘slider’ fixings as described previously. Please be aware that although built in fridge freezers can be installed as right or left hand hinged, this is not always the case with freestanding models. Please check the handing options before ordering. Wine Coolers There are a few ‘built in’ wine coolers available. Wine coolers are essentially fridges with a glass door and they are designed to store wine at the desired temperature. They are normally designed to be installed under a worktop or ‘“built under”’. The door usually has a steel or aluminium frame and these machines are not designed to take a furniture door. Check carefully height of “under counter” models as they are often higher than standard. If the machine is to be fitted below a worktop please ensure adequate ventilation is provided (often through the worktop above). American “side by side” fridge freezers Although essentially freestanding, American style side by side fridge freezers are often ‘‘built in’’. This involves the appliance being installed between two tall units with a cabinet (or top box) over the top of the fridge freezer. These machines are generally made to imperial sizes and are not compatible with standard European sizes. Care should be taken with regard to ventilation at the back of the machine and special attention should be paid to the space needed for the doors to open more than 90 degrees. In many models, if you cannot open the doors to at least 110 degrees it is impossible to fully open drawers or remove drawers and shelves. Delivery of this type of appliance can be problematic due to the size of the machine so it is vital that you supply full details of access. The vast majority of these machines need to be plumbed into a cold water mains supply. The few that are not plumbed in are freestanding. Before ordering please check the machine sizes, particularly the depths very carefully. These products are intended for domestic use only. If used in a commercial environment, the warranty will not be valid! 14. Laundry Integrated washing machines. These are available from virtually every brand. Generally machines are fully integrated although there are a few exceptions offering ”semi integrated” models. The furniture door can normally be hung on both sides, but in most cases the drum door opens to the left only. There are various spin speeds offered. They range from 1000 rpm up to 1600rpm, with the latter considered to be better as these machines are given an ‘A’ drying class rating. To get an ‘A’ energy rating, modern washing machines have been designed to use a cold water feed only. This means that they heat water as it is needed, rather than use hot water from the domestic supply. Integrated Dryers Generally these machines are “condenser” dryers. These collect the condensed water from the drum, which is then pumped to a bottle/container that is accessible from the front of the machine. Most condenser dryers can be plumbed into a waste water pipe, in a similar way to a dishwasher or washing machine. Doing this means that the bottle/container does not have to be emptied. This can be an important feature, as the machine will not function if the bottle is full up! Currently a very limited range of “vented” integrated dryers are available. These needs a 4 inch vent hose to take the warm moist air out of the kitchen through an outside wall. Such machines are more difficult to install because of this and are not always the best option. Washer/Dryers Guess what? Yes, these are designed to wash and dry! These machines are often described as good washers but not so good dryers. The water from both cycles is taken out via the waste water or drain hose. These machines are ideal for use where space is a premium and separate washer & dryer cannot be accommodated. As these machines peform two functions, the drying load is normally around half that of the wash load. These machines can also take longer than a standard washer. 15. Plate warmers, coffee machines etc. Plate warmers or warming drawers have become very popular. They are available in two sizes from the brands mentioned- 140mm ( up to 6 place settings) & 290mm high ( up to 12 place settings). They have a handle that matches the ovens in the range and at present are offered in stainless steel only. Be careful, plate warmers are only designed to warm plates, not to keep food warm, for that you need a warming drawer. Coffee Machines These machines are now hugely popular as more manufacturers launch their own versions of this product. ‘Built in’ coffee machines will grind beans and froth milk, and some machines provide hot water etc. As with most appliances, there are various ways of producing the same results. Some machines will produce coffee at the touch of a button, whilst others use the more traditional ‘Barista’ method. Most machines are not plumbed in and have a container inside which must be filled with water. The dimensions of coffee machines can vary, but most are designed to fit into a 600mm wide unit and are 450mm high. 16. Special Needs Some ‘built in’ appliances are particularly suited for those with ‘special needs’. Hobs are available with front controls for wheelchair users, and some hob and tap controls are suitable for use by people with arthritic hands. There are also a number of ovens that have side hinged or foldaway doors rather than drop down doors, making access easier. For specialist help and advice call out 17. Energy Efficiency Biasco is a certified member of the Energy Efficiency Endorsement Scheme and pays particular attention to recommending energy efficient products. We display energy efficiency rating whenever they are available. Please call our helpline for the latest information and energy efficient models. The majority of ‘built in’ appliances have energy efficiency ratings. The only ones that do not are: Hobs, Hoods and Microwaves. The ratings are in alphabetical form. The best is A (sometimes even A+) and the poorest is G. Double ovens will have two ratings, one for the top oven and one for the bottom oven. 18. Range Cookers Another freestanding product that can be ‘‘built in’’. The majority of these cookers are ‘installed’ between base units. Manufacturers normally recommend that a gap of 50mm, for gas or dual fuel cookers, is left either side of the appliance. A gap of between 5mm-15mm is normally recommended for all electric cookers. In the absence of manufacturers instructions, Gas and Dual Fuel ranges must have a gap of 50mm either side. NOTE. This information is part of our complete technical manual. In an effort to give our clients the best possible service, the complete technical manual and buyers guide can be downloaded from our site free of charge  
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Ну да действительно статья красивая! Мне особенно понравились в ней буквы G, h, R особенно перевернутая буковка Я и та что на нашу Ч похожа только к верх ногами. Эти оболтусы когда не будь по нашенски научатся писать?
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